STYLE

Checks, tartans and stripes should be on your agenda this summer.

PREPARE FOR PATTERN

1. MIX AND MATCH

Dutch designers Viktor & Rolf have distinguished themselves for their witty, concept-driven designs. They never take themselves too seriously, a fact demonstrated in their often humorous and theatrical catwalk shows. For their summer collection, the pair abandoned models entirely, instead choosing to walk down the catwalk themselves and quickly change on stage in between looks. This unconventional approach certainly suits their quirky clothes, which mix established, gentlemanly attire, such as blazers, bow ties and brogues, with clashing but colourful tartans, checks and stripes.

TROUSERS £344 (€449); POLO SHIRT £187 (€244) www.VIKTOR-ROLF.COM

2. AND THE BEAT GOES ON

For more than 20 years French-born designer Nicole Farhi has been creating clothes renowned for fusing soft, functional tailoring with luxurious finishes. In her summer collection, Farhi has been inspired by Allen Ginsberg, Jack Kerouac and the rest of the rebellious writers and poets of the Beat Generation in 1950s America. Her designs evoke the period’s non-conformism and casual unkempt fashion, with a mix of softly tailored tartan jackets, cotton knitwear, slouchy, pleated chinos and crumpled, checked neckties. In contrast to the laid-back cuts, the colour palette is bold with bright blues, golds and reds.

NECKTIES FROM £59 (€77) www.NICOLEFARHI.COM

3. FITTING THE BILL

When Bill Amberg launched his handbag range in 1984, he was driven by a vision to create leather goods that were recognisable by their quality, not their logo. More than 20 years later and the label has expanded into babywear, architectural design and furniture. But the founding philosophy remains and the brand boasts Jerry Hall and Donna Karan among its fans. This year Bill Amberg has created the Zebra Orchard bag with its seventies-inspired design and buffalo calf and horn handles. Also available in blue and cream.

£425 (€556) www.BILLAMBERG.COM

4. PASTEL POWER

British designer Paul Smith might be famous for his rock and roll clientele, but this summer’s collection has a distinctly preppy look. Less of a surprise is that the veteran designer, famous for his multicoloured stripes, used classic patterned fabrics in abundance. Micro checks, pinstripes, polka dots, Prince of Wales checks and stripes dominated the catwalk in all combinations and colours. Overall, the clothes had a very British feel and included cricket-inspired flannels, soft pastel-coloured blazers and slim-line suits.

BLAZER £485 (€636) www.PAULSMITH.CO.UK

5. FANCY FOOTWORK

You wouldn’t normally expect a profusion of pattern on a pair of brogues, but traditional Saville Row tailor Gieves & Hawkes has mastered a modern laser technique to create these limited edition lace-ups. Each shoe, made of chestnut leather, has had an intricate Prince of Wales check burnt onto its surface – apt considering Prince Charles is one of the brand’s most famous clients. But these brogues are not just for show; each sole has been secured to the upper by a strong, hand-stitched Goodyear welt, making them extremely durable and completely waterproof.

£295 (€386) www.GIEVESANDHAWKES.COM

6. TIED AND TESTED

Hawes & Curtis has been patronised by royalty and celebrities since its inception in 1913. The shirt makers famously created a tie for the Duke of Windsor, which had a thicker inner lining around the knot and later became known as the Windsor Tie. Today, while mindful of creating classic garments, Hawes & Curtis makes sure its designs are also influenced by current catwalk trends. This season, the combination of heritage and fashion has resulted in a luxury collection of silk ties with a Paisley print. Also available in blue and green.

£20 (€26) www.HAWESANDCURTIS.COM

BRAND FOCUS

KRIS VAN ASSCHE

BELGIUM-BORN DESIGNER KRIS VAN ASSCHE IS renowned for the way he reinvigorates traditional tailoring with a radical, edgy twist. Through attention to detail and poetic finishes, he creates clothes reminiscent of a refined and elegant world. But despite the nostalgia, Van Assche is influenced by modern men, such as Tim Bevan, Sean Penn and Johnny Depp.

After graduating from Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts in 1998, Van Assche moved to Paris. Under the tutelage of Hedi Slimane, first at Yves Saint Laurent and then at Dior Homme, Van Assche honed his now-masterly tailoring and design skills. But the turn of the century saw fashion become disposable, frenetic and flitting. Partly in reaction to this, Van Assche developed a new vision: clothes for a man who takes time to ‘dress up’.

It wasn’t until he launched his own label in January 2005 that Van Assche was able to show this philosophy to the fashion world. Suit seams were precise, lapels were accentuated by changing fabric grains and outfits were accessorised with handkerchiefs and hats. A sophisticated approach to sportswear was also central in this new ideal: Bermuda shorts were paired with tight-fitting golf tees, while Lycra gym shorts and pants were combined with polo shirts. These were clothes for men who wanted to be classic but not stuffy, and they were quickly embraced by the likes of Jude Law and Chris Martin.

When Dior Homme needed an artistic director in 2007, Kris Van Assche was the obvious choice. A year since taking the helm, the designer, who is only 32, has been credited for pushing the classic elegance of the Dior label forwards, a task ideally suited to his unique vision.